Wednesday 20 November 2013

Bicycle speedometers

Typical bycycle speedometers measure the time between each wheel revolution, and give a readout on a small, handlebar-mounted digital display. The sensor is mounted on the bike at a fixed location, pulsing when the spoke-mounted magnet passes by. In this way, it is analogous to an electronic car speedometer using pulses from an ABS sensor, but with a much cruder time/distance resolution - typically one pulse/display update per revolution, or as seldom as once every 2–3 seconds at low speed with a 26-inch (2.07m circumference, without tire) wheel. However, this is rarely a critical problem, and the system provides frequent updates at higher road speeds where the information is of more import. The low pulse frequency also has little impact on measurement accuracy, as these digital devices can be programmed by wheel size, or additionally by wheel or tire circumference in order to make distance measurements more accurate and precise than a typical motor vehicle gauge. However these devices carry some minor disadvantage in requiring power from batteries that must be replaced every so often (in the receiver AND sensor, for wireless models), and, in wired models, the signal being carried by a thin cable that is much less robust than that used for brakes, gears, or cabled speedometers.
Other, usually older bicycle speedometers are cable driven from one or other wheel, as in the motorcycle speedometers described above. These do not require battery power, but can be relatively bulky and heavy, and may be less accurate. The turning force at the wheel may be provided either from a gearing system at the hub (making use of the presence of e.g. a hub brake, cylinder gear or dynamo) as per a typical motorcycle, or with a friction wheel device that pushes against the outer edge of the rim (same position as rim brakes, but on the opposite edge of the fork) or the sidewall of the tyre itself. The former type are quite reliable and low maintenance but need a gauge and hub gearing properly matched to the rim and tyre size, whereas the latter require little or no calibration for a moderately accurate readout (with standard tyres, the "distance" covered in each wheel rotation by a friction wheel set against the rim should scale fairly linearly with wheel size, almost as if it was rolling along the ground itself) but are unsuitable for off-road use, and need to be kept properly tensioned and clean of road dirt to avoid slipping or jamming.

Thursday 14 November 2013

innova specification

ENGINE TYPE
DIESEL
Grade
G
V
Z
X
X
X
 
7-Seater
8-Seater
7-Seater
8-Seater
7-Seater
 DIMENSIONS
Overall Length
4585 mm
Overall Width
1765 mm
Overall Height
1760 mm
Wheelbase
2750 mm
Tread Front / Rear
1510 mm / 1510 mm
Min. Turning Radius
5.4 m
Fuel Tank Capacity
55 litres
 WEIGHTS
Max. Kerb Weights1675 kg1680 kg1700 kg
Gross Weight2300 kg2300 kg2300 kg
 ENGINE
Type
BS III: 2KD-FTV, Diesel with Turbocharger, 4 inline cylinder
BS IV: 2KD-FTV, Diesel with Intercooler Turbocharger, 4 inline cylinder
Valve Train
16 Valve DOHC
Displacement
2494 cm³ (cc)
Fuel Supply System
Common-Rail
Max. Output
75 kW @ 3600 rpm (102 PS @ 3600 rpm)
Max. Torque
BS III - 200 Nm @ 1400-3400 rpm (20.4 kg-m @ 1400-3400 rpm)
BS IV - 200 Nm @ 1200-3600 (20.4 kg-m @ 1200-3600 rpm)
 CHASSIS & TRANSMISSION
Suspension Front / Rear
Double Wishbone / Four Link with Lateral Rod
Brakes Front/Rear
Ventilated Disc / Leading-Trailing Drum
Tyres
205/65 R15 Tubeless Radials
Transmission
5 Speed Manual
 EXTERIOR FEATURES

Saturday 2 November 2013

Fuel tank construction

While most tanks are manufactured, some fuel tanks are still fabricated by metal craftsmen or hand-made in the case of bladder-style tanks. These include custom and restoration tanks for automotive,aircraft, motorcycles, and even tractors. Construction of fuel tanks follows a series of specific steps. The craftsman generally creates a mockup to determine the accurate size and shape of the tank, usually out of foam board. Next, design issues that affect the structure of the tank are addressed - such as where the outlet, drain, fluid level indicator, seams, and baffles go. Then the craftsmen must determine the thickness, temper and alloy of the sheet he will use to make the tank. After the sheet is cut to the shapes needed, various pieces are bent to create the basic shell and/or ends and baffles for the tank. Many fuel tanks' baffles (particularly in aircraft and racecars) contain lightening holes. These flanged holes serve two purposes, they reduce the weight of the tank while adding strength to the baffles. Toward the ends of construction openings are added for the filler neck, fuel pickup, drain, and fuel-level sending unit. Sometimes these holes are created on the flat shell, other times they are added at the end of the fabrication process. Baffles and ends can be riveted into place. The heads of the rivets are frequently brazed or soldered to prevent tank leaks. Ends can then be hemmed in and soldered, or flanged and brazed (and/or sealed with an epoxy-type sealant) or the ends can be flanged and then welded. Once the soldering, brazing or welding is complete, the fuel tank is leak-tested.